Editor’s note: This is part one of a two-part commentary by Vickie Kauffold, superintendent of Archdiocese of Omaha Catholic Schools. She was one of the 20 pilgrims from the Archdiocese of Omaha to accompany Archbishop Michael G. McGovern to Rome to receive his pallium from Pope Leo XIV. The pallium is a liturgical vestment worn by metropolitan archbishops. Archbishop McGovern was one of 54 new metropolitan archbishops to receive a pallium on June 29, the Solemnity of Sts. Peter and Paul.
Kauffold
Hours after arriving in Rome, three of the 20 pilgrims from the Archdiocese of Omaha journeyed to St. Peter’s Square and walked through the Holy Doors of St. Peter’s Basilica.
Hundreds of people were swarming around the inside of the basilica that hot afternoon. A guard was monitoring the adoration chapel to make sure it was not overcrowded. These adorers were not there to look at the beautiful sculptures, view the tombs of popes or admire the mosaics on the ceiling tiles; they were there to pray. It was 3 p.m., the perfect hour to pray the Divine Mercy chaplet and begin our pilgrimage in the Eternal City.
Pilgrims pray at Santo Spirito Church in Rome.
After checking into our rooms, it was on to Santo Spirito Church for our first Mass in Rome. This is where the first Divine Mercy Sunday Mass was held over 23 years ago. A chapel to honor St. Faustina is fittingly located here. The heat and fast pace of the tours would challenge us throughout the week. This time with St. Faustina would remind us to be merciful with one another as the Lord pours out His mercy on us.
Our first full day in Rome brought unexpected changes to our schedule. Instead of a tour of the basilica, we ended up taking a tour of two other churches. Our first stop was at San Giovanni dei Fiorentini (St. John the Baptist). This was also the feast day of St. John the Baptist. The life of this saint reminded us that we must decrease so that He may increase in us – another great message for the pilgrims to reflect upon throughout the journey.
Sculpture depicting Jesus’ Baptism at San Giovanni dei Fiorentini
We visited a church built by St. Philip Neri, Chiesa Nuova. His remains are preserved in a small chapel, and members of the Oratory of St. Philip Neri take care of the facilities. One could see his skeletal fingers through mesh gloves. Prayers for our own St. Philip Neri Parish and School were offered up in this chapel.
Tomb of St. Philip Neri
The afternoon brought a casual bus tour through the Vatican Gardens just behind St. Peter’s Basilica. We learned about which parts of the garden were used by past popes. Casual meetings in a shaded area for one pope, while another liked to take brisk walks around the entire garden. Another enjoyed watching the turtles in a pond, while yet another enjoyed sitting in the English Gardens. We could only imagine what they might have experienced in the same space. We celebrated Mass in a private chapel for the Vatican police that sits in one of the rooms behind the Vatican.
On the day of the papal audience, we were up early to stand in line, eagerly awaiting our entrance into St. Peter’s Square and hoping to secure prime seats for the papal audience. Thanks to Father Tobias Letak’s experience, we secured a spot close to the pathway that Pope Leo XIV would travel down in the popemobile before heading to his seat.
Archdiocese pilgrims at the papal audience
Pope Leo XIV in the popemobile
It was exciting to see him up close, just to observe who he is as a person. He was kissing babies, blessing young children and waving to those who were there for the audience. I thought about what his life is like now. He will spend the rest of his life in the service of the Church in a very public way. He has surrendered and abandoned all the comforts of a somewhat private life and is now Papa to the entire world. Just a few months ago, he could walk the streets of Rome and eat at his favorite restaurant; now he asks the sisters at the Vatican to pick up his favorite meal from the same restaurant for him to dine in his quarters.
The afternoon adventure began at Scala Sancta, 28 steps that are said to be those that Christ ascended in Pontius Pilate’s house during his trial. Several of us went up these Holy Stairs, calling to mind our own prayer intentions as we slowly navigate each step on our knees, praying for our family members, for friends and neighbors back home, for intentions that are heavy on our hearts.
My prayers at this place were for the leaders of our Catholic schools in the archdiocese. The challenges they endure each day, week and year are unpredictable. I am truly thankful for each one of them and their commitment to the vocation of Catholic education. May my prayer for them this day provide strength for the upcoming school year.
Right across the street was the Basilica of St. John Lateran. All the pilgrims in our group walked through the Holy Doors and entered a wide-open space with enormous statues of the 12 apostles on display looking over us. Many of these grand statues depict how the apostles died for the faith.
The final stop of the day was passing through the Holy Doors at the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore, the largest Marian shrine in Rome. Our group celebrated Mass in a side chapel. Despite the oppressive heat and the tight space, other visitors learned of our English-speaking Mass and wanted to join us.
Archbishop McGovern celebrates Mass at the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore (St. Mary Major).
Other side chapels were in use for Mass in other languages: a beautiful reminder to me that the Catholic Church is universal and has members worldwide. This is where Pope Francis requested that his remains be laid. We each paused for a moment of prayer at Pope Francis’ tomb.
At the end of this busy day, I joined Father Dan Kampschneider at St. Peter’s Basilica to attend a prayer service for priests in front of the Chair of St. Peter. There were less than 200 people there. The prayer service, in Italian, provided a quiet time to reflect upon the graces of the day. We took our time to pause and admire the beauty throughout the basilica.
St. Peter’s Square at night
On our way back to the hotel, we couldn’t help but admire how St. Peter’s Square was lit up, providing a place of solace and refuge for the homeless who were set up in tents around the outside of the square. Earlier in the evening, we noticed a statue within the square that depicts an angel sitting on a bench, representing how God is with all regardless of our circumstances.
The second largest church in Rome is the Basilica of St. Paul Outside the Wall. In the courtyard is an enormous statue of St. Paul looking off into the distance. We began our day with a prayer before entering through the Holy Doors to explore what was inside. What we encountered inside was awe-inspiring. Mosaics of all the past popes lined the top edge of every wall. Behind the main altar, in the center of the basilica, is the crypt of St. Paul. On display are the chains that held St. Paul captive when he was imprisoned. What came to me in prayer was the need to be unchained from my burdens. Just as St. Paul’s eyes were opened, I asked the Lord to help me see more clearly His desires for me.
St. Paul’s tomb
We continued to explore St. Paul’s martyrdom at Tre Fontane, the location where St. Paul was imprisoned and eventually beheaded. It is a quiet, out-of-the-way place managed by Trappist monks. From here we traveled to the Basilica of San Clemente, named for the fourth pope. There we celebrated Mass and toured the rooms that have been excavated underneath the church.
We had the rest of the afternoon to do whatever we wanted. Whenever there was an opportunity to go exploring the city with either of our priests, I took advantage of it without hesitation. The afternoon excursion did not disappoint. The sweltering heat of the city had not let up, so we looked for a few churches that we could spend time in to get out of the heat and pray.
They first took me to the Church of the Gesù, the first Jesuit church built in Rome. I spent time reflecting on the life of St. Ignatius. I also spent time in prayer at the tomb of St. Robert Bellarmine, who is laid to rest at the Church of St. Ignatius.
Tomb of St. Robert Bellarmine
Our next stop was at Santa Maria sopra Minerva, where remains of St. Catherine of Siena are kept under the altar. As we continued to explore the area, Father Dan noted that St. Catherine of Siena lived just around the corner. At that moment it struck me: Saints and martyrs walked these same streets hundreds of years ago. They lived their lives then just as I’m living mine today. I will continue to look to these great saints to guide my spiritual journey.
Next week the Catholic Voice will post the second part of this pilgrim’s journey – including the Pallium Mass. Stay tuned for part two!
READ MORE FROM THE CATHOLIC VOICE:
Archbishop Michael G. McGovern stands before Archdiocese of Omaha pilgrims during their trip to Rome. The archbishop received his pallium, a special liturgical vestment, from Pope Leo XIV on June 29. PHOTO BY ZOFIA CZUBAK
Commentary
Rome’s holy sites viewed through the eyes, heart of a pilgrim
July 16, 2025
Editor’s note: This is part one of a two-part commentary by Vickie Kauffold, superintendent of Archdiocese of Omaha Catholic Schools. She was one of the 20 pilgrims from the Archdiocese of Omaha to accompany Archbishop Michael G. McGovern to Rome to receive his pallium from Pope Leo XIV. The pallium is a liturgical vestment worn by metropolitan archbishops. Archbishop McGovern was one of 54 new metropolitan archbishops to receive a pallium on June 29, the Solemnity of Sts. Peter and Paul.
Kauffold
Hours after arriving in Rome, three of the 20 pilgrims from the Archdiocese of Omaha journeyed to St. Peter’s Square and walked through the Holy Doors of St. Peter’s Basilica.
Hundreds of people were swarming around the inside of the basilica that hot afternoon. A guard was monitoring the adoration chapel to make sure it was not overcrowded. These adorers were not there to look at the beautiful sculptures, view the tombs of popes or admire the mosaics on the ceiling tiles; they were there to pray. It was 3 p.m., the perfect hour to pray the Divine Mercy chaplet and begin our pilgrimage in the Eternal City.
Pilgrims pray at Santo Spirito Church in Rome.
After checking into our rooms, it was on to Santo Spirito Church for our first Mass in Rome. This is where the first Divine Mercy Sunday Mass was held over 23 years ago. A chapel to honor St. Faustina is fittingly located here. The heat and fast pace of the tours would challenge us throughout the week. This time with St. Faustina would remind us to be merciful with one another as the Lord pours out His mercy on us.
Our first full day in Rome brought unexpected changes to our schedule. Instead of a tour of the basilica, we ended up taking a tour of two other churches. Our first stop was at San Giovanni dei Fiorentini (St. John the Baptist). This was also the feast day of St. John the Baptist. The life of this saint reminded us that we must decrease so that He may increase in us – another great message for the pilgrims to reflect upon throughout the journey.
Sculpture depicting Jesus’ Baptism at San Giovanni dei Fiorentini
We visited a church built by St. Philip Neri, Chiesa Nuova. His remains are preserved in a small chapel, and members of the Oratory of St. Philip Neri take care of the facilities. One could see his skeletal fingers through mesh gloves. Prayers for our own St. Philip Neri Parish and School were offered up in this chapel.
Tomb of St. Philip Neri
The afternoon brought a casual bus tour through the Vatican Gardens just behind St. Peter’s Basilica. We learned about which parts of the garden were used by past popes. Casual meetings in a shaded area for one pope, while another liked to take brisk walks around the entire garden. Another enjoyed watching the turtles in a pond, while yet another enjoyed sitting in the English Gardens. We could only imagine what they might have experienced in the same space. We celebrated Mass in a private chapel for the Vatican police that sits in one of the rooms behind the Vatican.
On the day of the papal audience, we were up early to stand in line, eagerly awaiting our entrance into St. Peter’s Square and hoping to secure prime seats for the papal audience. Thanks to Father Tobias Letak’s experience, we secured a spot close to the pathway that Pope Leo XIV would travel down in the popemobile before heading to his seat.
Archdiocese pilgrims at the papal audience
Pope Leo XIV in the popemobile
It was exciting to see him up close, just to observe who he is as a person. He was kissing babies, blessing young children and waving to those who were there for the audience. I thought about what his life is like now. He will spend the rest of his life in the service of the Church in a very public way. He has surrendered and abandoned all the comforts of a somewhat private life and is now Papa to the entire world. Just a few months ago, he could walk the streets of Rome and eat at his favorite restaurant; now he asks the sisters at the Vatican to pick up his favorite meal from the same restaurant for him to dine in his quarters.
The afternoon adventure began at Scala Sancta, 28 steps that are said to be those that Christ ascended in Pontius Pilate’s house during his trial. Several of us went up these Holy Stairs, calling to mind our own prayer intentions as we slowly navigate each step on our knees, praying for our family members, for friends and neighbors back home, for intentions that are heavy on our hearts.
My prayers at this place were for the leaders of our Catholic schools in the archdiocese. The challenges they endure each day, week and year are unpredictable. I am truly thankful for each one of them and their commitment to the vocation of Catholic education. May my prayer for them this day provide strength for the upcoming school year.
Right across the street was the Basilica of St. John Lateran. All the pilgrims in our group walked through the Holy Doors and entered a wide-open space with enormous statues of the 12 apostles on display looking over us. Many of these grand statues depict how the apostles died for the faith.
The final stop of the day was passing through the Holy Doors at the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore, the largest Marian shrine in Rome. Our group celebrated Mass in a side chapel. Despite the oppressive heat and the tight space, other visitors learned of our English-speaking Mass and wanted to join us.
Archbishop McGovern celebrates Mass at the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore (St. Mary Major).
Other side chapels were in use for Mass in other languages: a beautiful reminder to me that the Catholic Church is universal and has members worldwide. This is where Pope Francis requested that his remains be laid. We each paused for a moment of prayer at Pope Francis’ tomb.
At the end of this busy day, I joined Father Dan Kampschneider at St. Peter’s Basilica to attend a prayer service for priests in front of the Chair of St. Peter. There were less than 200 people there. The prayer service, in Italian, provided a quiet time to reflect upon the graces of the day. We took our time to pause and admire the beauty throughout the basilica.
St. Peter’s Square at night
On our way back to the hotel, we couldn’t help but admire how St. Peter’s Square was lit up, providing a place of solace and refuge for the homeless who were set up in tents around the outside of the square. Earlier in the evening, we noticed a statue within the square that depicts an angel sitting on a bench, representing how God is with all regardless of our circumstances.
The second largest church in Rome is the Basilica of St. Paul Outside the Wall. In the courtyard is an enormous statue of St. Paul looking off into the distance. We began our day with a prayer before entering through the Holy Doors to explore what was inside. What we encountered inside was awe-inspiring. Mosaics of all the past popes lined the top edge of every wall. Behind the main altar, in the center of the basilica, is the crypt of St. Paul. On display are the chains that held St. Paul captive when he was imprisoned. What came to me in prayer was the need to be unchained from my burdens. Just as St. Paul’s eyes were opened, I asked the Lord to help me see more clearly His desires for me.
St. Paul’s tomb
We continued to explore St. Paul’s martyrdom at Tre Fontane, the location where St. Paul was imprisoned and eventually beheaded. It is a quiet, out-of-the-way place managed by Trappist monks. From here we traveled to the Basilica of San Clemente, named for the fourth pope. There we celebrated Mass and toured the rooms that have been excavated underneath the church.
We had the rest of the afternoon to do whatever we wanted. Whenever there was an opportunity to go exploring the city with either of our priests, I took advantage of it without hesitation. The afternoon excursion did not disappoint. The sweltering heat of the city had not let up, so we looked for a few churches that we could spend time in to get out of the heat and pray.
They first took me to the Church of the Gesù, the first Jesuit church built in Rome. I spent time reflecting on the life of St. Ignatius. I also spent time in prayer at the tomb of St. Robert Bellarmine, who is laid to rest at the Church of St. Ignatius.
Tomb of St. Robert Bellarmine
Our next stop was at Santa Maria sopra Minerva, where remains of St. Catherine of Siena are kept under the altar. As we continued to explore the area, Father Dan noted that St. Catherine of Siena lived just around the corner. At that moment it struck me: Saints and martyrs walked these same streets hundreds of years ago. They lived their lives then just as I’m living mine today. I will continue to look to these great saints to guide my spiritual journey.
Next week the Catholic Voice will post the second part of this pilgrim’s journey – including the Pallium Mass. Stay tuned for part two!
READ MORE FROM THE CATHOLIC VOICE: